• REGULAR VACCUUMING – Use only low-level suction to care for and preserve your rug.  Do not use (or disengage) beater bar vacuums or powerhead attachments.  Do not vacuum rug fringe.  Vacuum in the direction of the nap.
  • CLIP LOOSE FIBERS - longer fibers may rise (or ‘sprout’) above the surface of the rug after use or vacuuming. This is not a rug defect; it’s a natural process that happens with many types of rugs.  Never pull these ends out, as this can damage the rug.  Simply cut the yarn sticking up above the surface with a pair of scissors so that the fiber is flush with the rug’s surface.
  • CLEAN SPILLS AND SPOTS IMMEDIATELY - but never rub a spill. Always blot with white paper towel or clean white terry towel. Simple soap and water should remove most stains.  Otherwise, most are removed by either a dry cleaning fluid or a simple solution of one teaspoon of mild detergent (Woolite) with one teaspoon of white vinegar in a quart of warm water.  Remove excess water with a vacuum or water extractor and then dry with a blow dryer on low temperature. Be sure to test cleaning solutions in an inconspicuous area to be sure the cleanser will not damage the fiber.  NEVER STEAM CLEAN A WOOL RUG. The use of any other cleaning solvent or service will void most rug vendor’s warranty.   Rugs of the World does not guarantee that these methods work and should be used as a guideline only. If in doubt, call a reputable rug cleaner.
  • PROFESSIONALLY CLEAN PERIODICALLY - to remove deep-down dirt and grime. Also, Some stains are so complex that someone with knowledge of textile chemistry should treat them.
  • USE A RUG PAD:  Only use a natural rubber (not synthetic) rug pad to protect your floor, reduce wear, provide non-slip safety and cushion underfoot.
  • ROTATE RUGS PERIODICALLY - regular traffic will begin to show eventually, so be sure to rotate rugs in order to create even wear across the entire rug surface. Also, rotate to equalize any effects sunlight may have on your rug.
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All synthetic and wool pile rugs characteristically lose short fibers. This “shedding" process is often created when the pile is cut to required height during production and fibers fall onto the surface as “fluff." Shedding is not considered a defect. The amount of shedding will vary based on material type and quality, pile height, age of the rug and knot density.


Certain types of yarns used in rug making are “over-twisted" in order to give the rug the desired texture, and often a yarn tuft will rise above the surface (commonly called “sprouting"). Sprouting is one of the easiest issues to remedy by merely cutting the sprout (the yarn sticking up above the surface) with a pair of scissors so that it is flush with the rug's surface. DO NOT PULL THE SPROUT AS IT CAN DAMAGE THE RUG. Also be aware that high heels can cause sprouting as well, even in flat-weave rugs.


The term “curling" can be used to describe a couple of situations. Rugs are often shipped rolled tightly in a cylindrical shape. Sometimes, when the rugs are initially unpacked, the edges will curl under, refusing to lay flat. The rug's foundation or backing must be given time to relax after being unpacked. Often times, reverse rolling the rug will speed the relaxing process. Curling can also be a sign in hand-knotted rugs of a very finely and tightly woven piece. Sewing strips of leather along the edges in cases such as these will prevent curling. Such work should be undertaken only by a professional rug repair workshop.

The term “curling" is also used to describe the stretching/wrinkling that occurs when a rug is placed on top of wall–to–wall carpet, usually with heavy furniture placed on the rug's surface. This is not a defect of the rug, although in such cases the rug will never lay flat again. It is simply due to the fact that the rug's foundation has been stretched. 


Insect Damage (including moth damage):

Rugs should be checked periodically for evidence of insect infestation, which can be introduced in many ways, including pets, flowers or food. Your rug's worst enemy is the moth. While adult moths will not eat wool, their larvae feed on it in dark, quiet, warm places, such as areas hidden under furniture. Therefore, regular cleaning is necessary to avoid moth infestation. Moving your rug into the hot sun for a few hours every now and then is a good precaution. Moths are most active during the summer months, so exercise special care during this time. While many anti-moth sprays are available on the market, be sure that they will not harm your rug's fibers or colors before applying them. Camphor powder also has been used for many years to deter moths. Dusting the back of your rug with camphor powder and lightly shaking it can be an effective preventative measure.


Heavy furniture may damage your rug. If the feet of your furniture are sharp or are made of metal, you must use some sort of protector prior to setting such furniture on top of your rug. There are many types of protectors available. Furniture floaters, which have a smooth surface and adhere directly to the legs of your furniture, leave minimal indentations on the surface of your rug. If the pile of your rug has become crushed and you wish to attempt to restore it to its normal height, try brushing the affected area gently with a soft brush.


Excessive fading can occur if a rug is exposed to long periods of strong sunlight. Reduce the effects of fading by either repositioning the rug or drawing blinds or draperies. Over the years, however, any light will eventually mellow the colors, and sometimes this subdued coloration can be an advantage. Faded, mellow colors are often very appealing to many rug connoisseurs.

Plant Lovers, Beware:

Over-watering, spilled flower pots and placing planters directly on your rug will create continuous dampness and can lead to mildew rot — an irreparable type of damage. Color transfer may also occur if a rug is placed on top of existing carpeting.

Rug Storage:

If you need to store your rug for any lengthy amount of time, first make sure that it is clean and dry. It is advisable to treat it with a moth repellent (see “Insect Damage"), then roll the rug into a tight cylinder against the nap and wrap in a breathable fabric, such as a sheet. Plastic wrapping will prevent the rug from breathing. The rug should be stored in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area. Some larger hand-knotted rugs can be stored folded if not too tightly woven; however, these too should be treated for moths and stored in breathable fabric. Never store heavy objects on your rolled or folded rugs as doing so could cause permanent damage by creasing the rug and, in some cases, breaking the foundation or backing of a tufted rug.